Latest report from the Chilean Dhaulagiri team: Dhaulagiri 1 Chile 0
“Today we woke up at 3 AM to go to Camp 1. But first we should pass the hanging glacier that is in front of us (which one, by the way, is falling apart piece by piece).
After a couple of hours we were in front of a huge rock wall. In that moment I reminded what Herzog (Herzeg?), the first man to try to climb Dhaulagiri, said. He looked at it, turn back and left, saying it was impossible. We look for several places till, finally, we decided to go for the rock side, in the wall named Eiger, the one that connected the glaciar up there. The problem was it was already too late and the sun was hitting hard and the avalanchs started to fall.

We decided return and to asume our first try was a failure. We left our backpacks hanging from an icecrew, allowing us in that way to return at the same sector faster.
We are back in the base, resting and preparing ourselves to wake up earlier and make a second attempt
We dedicated this report to Gallyas; thank you to support our crazyness.”
Andrés Guzmán.
www.alhimalaya.cl
(free and kind of tired translation of somebody which is also free and kind of tired: RF). 

Weather Forecast

General situation:
Dhaulagiri is situated along the northern side of a high pressure cell of which the center is positioned over the northeastern parts of india. This results in a slack (weak wind) over the main parts of the Himalaya. The air mass over the Himalayas is unstable enough to generate a few showers.

Here are the details
Day 1: Sunday, 27 september 09
Wind:
6000mr: 4-8kt no significant change 
7000mr: 4-8kt no significant change
8000mr: 4-8kt no significant change
Temperatures: 6000mr-3/-5°C  8000mr-16/-18°C
Weather: cloudy to very cloudy, becoming very cloudy to overcast with possibly a few showers
 
Day 2: Monday, 28 september 09
Wind:
6000mr: 4-8kt decreasing to less than 5kt 
7000mr: 4-8kt decreasing to less than 5kt
8000mr: 8-12kt after 18utc decreasing to 5kt
Temperatures: 6000mr -4/-6°C 8000mr:-18°C
Weather: enlarging sunny spells, with a shower, gradually improving.
 
Day 3: Tuesday, 29 september 09
Wind:
6000mr: calm becoming 5kt 
7000mr: calm becoming 5kt
8000mr: 5-10kt no significant change 
Temperatures: 6000mr-4/-6°C 7000mr:-17°C
Weather: sunny with scattered cirrus, later some more convective cloud but no showers
 
I enjoy reading your website. Be safe and enjoy the climb.
marc

This entry was posted on Saturday, September 26th, 2009 at 6:34 pm and is filed under Expedición Chilena Dhaulagiri 2009. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.